Wat Arun - Temple of Dawn

What does Wat Arun mean?

Buddhist temples are called “wat” in Thai. “Arun” is derived from the Hindu God of Dawn, Aruna. Thus, put together, Wat Arun literally means the Temple of Dawn. Ironically, the magnificence of Wat Arun is seen during sunset (not at dawn) from the Chao Phraya River, where its striking silhouette captures your attention. 

 

Symbolism

Wat Arun, one of the few surviving legacies of the Chakri dynasty, sits on the Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya River. Its architecture is supposed to represent Mount Meru. Tibetan Buddhists believe that Mount Meru exists beyond our realm of reality, in a realm of perfection and transcendence. It is the centre of the universe, a single-point of focus sought by adepts. Wat Arun houses images of the guardian gods of the four directions, seen in the four prangs (Khmer-style tower characteristic of Thai temple architecture), reinforcing this spiritual symbolism.

History of Wat Arun

Wat Arun was known as Wat Makok Nok. Sailors would stop at the junction of the Chao Phraya River (now known as Thonburi) to replenish their supplies right in front of the old temple during the Golden era of Ayutthaya.

It is believed that the royal fleet of King Taksin, who founded the former capital of Thonburi, arrived at Wat Makok Nok at dawn. He paid his respects to the holy relic inside the pagoda and so, it was subsequently renamed as Wat Chaeng (Temple of Dawn). It became the designated royal temple as it caught the first rays of the sun at dawn.

King Taksin had a tiff with the monks and expelled them. Even though the Emerald Buddha statue was relocated to Wat Phra Kaeo in 1785, Wat Arun remained revered among the people. Rama I, the first king of the Chakri dynasty, allowed the monks to return as Wat Makok Nok ceased to be the royal temple after Rama I relocated his capital to modern day Bangkok.

Rama I’s successor, Rama II, established the temple to its former glory and renamed it Wat Arun Rachatharam. During Rama III’s reign, the Prang (tower) was raised to 67 metres, making it the highest Prang in Thailand, even today. Rama III adorned the temple structure with pieces of fine China which glints in the sun. These aditions to the architecture can be seen today. The temple was subsequently renamed again as Wat Arun Ratchavararam.

Architecture of Wat Arun

The 79 meter high prang, is enclosed by four smaller prangs holding the statues of Phra Phai, the God of Wind. Together, they symbolize the terrestrial representation of the thirty-three heavens. It is decorated with ceramic tiles and fragments of multi colored porcelain obtained from the boats coming to Bangkok from China .

Wat Arun is replete with mosaic adornment, making it visually stunning against Bangkok’s skyline. Steep stairs bring you partially to the top of the main prang rewarding you with a view of the Chao Phraya river and the rest of Bangkok’s skyline. Two terraces, representing the different heavens and supported by Kinnaree (half-humans) and scary Yaksas (demon guards), break up the steep climb. While catching your breath, you can admire the invaluable statues of the Buddha at the most important stages of his life on the first terrace and be awed by the four statues of the Hindu god Indra (Erawan) and his thirty-three headed elephant that stands guard on the second terrace.

Personal Experience

Trust me. I am not kidding when I say the steps are steep. I was regretting not doing some kind of warm-ups before climbing those steps. My thigh muscles were sore for the next three days (which speaks a lot about my physical fitness pfft!). It is also not for the Acrophobic (people with a fear of heights). My better half sat down at the bottom while I made my own way to the top. The view at the top however, was rewarding. We were lucky enough to go on a day when some prayers were going on. There was a bunch of buddhist monks in their orange robes sitting under a make-shift shade, chanting. Their chants echoing off the ancient walls of Wat Arun in addition to the feeling of walking up the same steps that disciples used to walk on over 300 years ago made this a visit to remember.

Getting there

Most convenient: Get off at Saphan Taksin BTS and then take the Chao Phraya boat service to Wat Po

By boat: From Tha Tien Pier, near Wat Pho / By bus: 1, 25, 44, 47, 62 and 91 and stop on Maharat road / By taxi or car: By Arun Amarin Road (Most cabbies will know where to take you if you just say Wat Arun)

Opening hours: 8.30 a.m. to 5.30 p.m.

Fees: 30 THB for foreigners, Free for locals

Hotels near Wat Arun (walking distance)

Arun Residence, Sala Rattanakosin Bangkok, Sala Arun, Chetuphon Gate, Chakrabongse Villas, Sawasdee Khaosan Inn